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I called customer service and they sent me out a replacement lock and keypad for free (lifetime warranty). I got the electronic keypad off but ended up breaking the back where it mounts to the outside of the safe. (Luck #2) The only issue I had was when I had to replace the battery I didn't know what I was doing. (Luck #1) First of all, I purchased my Cannon safe from Academy 11 years ago on a fantastic sale. The only thing I might have done differently is saved the $5 and not rented so many moving blankets.I must have gotten really lucky 3 times. This went FAR better than I expected it to. Everybody just stood back while I ratcheted it and let the safe slide, inch by steady inch, down the stairs. We used a come-a-long (attached to the trailer hitch on the truck) and simply lowered it down the stairs. Once again, we attached the tow strap to the dolly. We backed the truck into my garage and unloaded the safe. It came up the stairs EASY! We loaded it, dolly and all, onto a pickup truck and away we went. We ran a tow strap through the dolly and two of us pulled on the strap. We strapped the safe to the dolly, put three guys at the bottom of the safe as pushers (one was simply a backup - because of limited room in the stairway, he basically watched.) I rented an appliance dolly from U-haul and a dozen moving blankets for about $20. Today I bought a used safe from a member of this forum. Better a little extra work now, than the look on your wife's face when you tell her you have to replace the broken stairs. Attaching some 2x's to act as slider rails would spread the load across the steps but I would still brace them from below with vertical 2x's. In a pinch, if the safe is secured to a heavy duty appliance dolly, you could slide it down on the dolly back. No reason this process, or a variation, cannot work getting a safe down the stairs. Secured one end of a stout line to the cart and the other to the frame of my trusty F-150 and hauled it up. Secured the item to the cart with ratchet straps. I covered the landing with plywood false floor to prevent damage to the finished flooring. The rails spaced to fit a low cart I fabricated. Then attached L-shaped rails made from 2x4's over the steps from basement floor to upper landing. I braced the steps from beneath with vertical 2x4's. Time was critical and my usual gang of helpers were unavailable.
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I once had to remove something very, very heavy from a basement by myself. Mutliple landings or stairs with a turn in the middle are out of my league. My rule is once a safe is in the basement it is permanent.
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A pickup truck makes a for a good mule to control the slide down. Nice straight shot the to outside stairs are the bomb. Remving the door is the best if possible. No bump, bump, bump, on the way down and easier on the backs of your labor force. Stand it up at the bottom and dolly it in place. Work it over the edge carefully and slide it down the stairs on the 2x10's.
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(this will make life easy after it is down there) Secure the safe with your chosen method of lowering it. Lay the safe flat on its back on the landing. You could put some 1x's on edge to protect the sides of the stairwell if you think it will walk.
#Cannon gun safe ts6030 full#
Lay the 2x10's on the flat full length of the stairs. 2x10's, a load sling, rope and or winch/come-a-long.